Living it Up at the Hotel California? The True Story of Todos Santos

If you are looking for a vacation that is action packed and every minute is filled while you are surrounded by Senor Frogs, then Todos Santos (All Saints) is not for you.  If you are looking for an escape where there is just enough to do, but more than enough time to just read, stroll or even just do nothing and nap; then this small town near the tip of Baja California Sur may be worth considering.  It’s only about an hour and a half drive north of the more famous resort town of Cabo San Lucas, and is worth combining with that destination if you want to escape to Mexico this winter.

History

Todos Santos is a mission town founded in 1723.  In the years following its establishment it had its ups-and-downs, more downs than ups, until the late 19^th century.  In the late 1800’s it became a center for sugar plantations and became wealthy.  The towns streets are lined with old brick commercial buildings and historic homes from this period.  The sugar period ended in the middle of the 20^th century and the town again faded.  But, soon after it became a center for artists due to the area’s natural beauty.  Surfers also began to arrive to take advantage of the areas crashing waves and a little tourist industry began to thrive.

The Hotel  California

One of the most visited sights in town is the Hotel California. The old-school rock band the Eagles took a surf trip here and their car broke down in the area.  Many believe that this hotel is the namesake of their famous song.  (But, the hotel was abandoned at the time of their trip so there is no way they could have stayed there).

The area around Todos Santos is beautiful.  It is desert, surrounded by the Sierra Laguna mountains and the Pacific Ocean.  Although the town itself doesn’t get much rain, the surrounding mountains do.  The streams that form from the runoff create pockets of palms and other plants that stand out against the rough stone and sand.  There are so many Cardon Cacti, similar to the saguaro, that it almost feels like they form a prickly forest.  As noted above the area is famous for its surfing.

Beaches/Surfing/Whale Watching

It also has some of the best beaches in Baja Sur such as Playa Ceritos and Playa las Palmas. But, remember that good surfing makes for rough swimming and the water can get a little chilly in the winter. But, a plus is that the beaches are nowhere near as crowded as those at other major Mexican Resorts.  In winter the area is a breeding spot for the grey whales which can be seen from the shore.  You can head out on your own, or there are eco adventure tour companies to help you take advantage of the surrounding area.

Art Galleries

The town is noted for its art galleries and there are several to explore.  Many artists are local, including expatriates from the US, but there are also artists from other Mexican cities who maintain galleries here.  Prices can range from as low as $50 to well into the tens of thousands of dollars.  Due to the area’s natural beauty, landscapes are popular and works tend towards the modern. Even if you’re not a huge art fan, it may be worth checking out the gallery of Arturo Mendoza Elfeo.  His art is interesting and some locals refer to him as “El Guapo” (The Handsome).  This gives you two things to look at.

Restaurants

Todos Santos has many restaurants, about a dozen of them are worth checking out.  Mexican predominates, but there are also several Asian fusion, sushi and European style options. In addition to the Hotel California there are a couple of other very pleasant boutique hotels, one which offers a rooftop bar with impressive views. Todos Santos isn’t undiscovered.  But, it isn’t overrun yet. You can leisurely stroll from gallery to restaurant to the local history museum without hawkers trying to sell you something or drag you into their uncle’s club, which unfortunately can be common in more touristy areas.  But, don’t wait too long.  The areas natural beauty and charm won’t allow it to remain sleepy for too much longer.