Havana Ooh Na-Na
Havana is a fascinating and beautiful city, but a city of contrasts. Impressive, and recently restored, government buildings preside over boulevards with their grandeur. Next door is a building which at one point may have been nearly as impressive. Now its roof has collapsed and pieces of its stone ornament occasionally crash to the street below. An inventive Latin fusion food scene draws rave international reviews. While the typical resident isn’t starving, food can be hard to come by and there are days when they don’t eat. Life can be hard here, but there is a joy for life and a bond with friends and family which has been weakened in much of the modern world. It is all of these reasons, and more, which make Havana such an intriguing destination.
Is Cuba Lost In Time?
In the United States we tend to think of Cuba as being “lost in time” or unspoiled due to its lack of contact with the outside World. While it does have a throwback to the past feel in some areas, this isn’t entirely true. Europeans, Canadians, and the rest of Latin America have been visiting Cuba for decades. The local population is extremely well educated with one of the highest literacy rates in the World. Wi-fi and cell phones are available, but very expensive. But, if one family member can afford a smart phone, the rest will crowd around to listen to the latest news and music from outside of Cuba. Although mostly poor, the residents are well informed and cosmopolitan.
But, with only a small amount of new construction the city does have an older and unique beauty. It has not been overrun by Hilton, Starbucks or strip malls. With a 1950’s Chevy cruising by every couple of seconds, it is easy to imagine yourself in a sexy Latin version of Happy Days or American Graffiti. Don’t think that you just have to look at these classic cars. Hire a driver to take you around town in a convertible and enjoy the scene before it is changed forever.
Havana’s Impressive Architecture
For me, the architecture was one of the most impressive things about the city. Havana was meant to be a World Capital and its buildings were meant to impress. Domes, towers, colonnades, crooked streets and charming squares will remind you of Southern Europe. The pastel colors and street life bring you back to the Caribbean. There are very few things that actually look better as they get older. Venice and New Orleans somehow manage to get more attractive as their buildings fall apart. Havana also manages to do this, although its buildings are generally in worse shape. It can be easy to get lost in the beauty and charm, while forgetting that people live in the renaissance revival masterpieces with the broken windows and missing roofs. Restorations are ongoing, especially in the Old Town portion of the city. But, there is still a long way to go. The city will no doubt look amazing once everything has been spruced up. But, you should go now while there is still decay and mystery to explore.
Visa Concerns
To visit Cuba you need to get a visa and prove that your trip meets cultural and educational exchange requirements. An organized tour or cruise can take care of these requirements for you. But, don’t forget to leave time to wander on your own.
Wandering the Streets of Havana and a City of Music and Dance
In Havana life just happens, and it tends to be interesting. My favorite evening was spent wandering with two new friends we met on the ship. With no goals in mind, we found a wonderful and creative restaurant that was about half the price of what you would pay in the States. The clientele was mostly European and South American and fun to watch. After this we wandered aimlessly through narrow streets filled with people socializing. We passed a dance school, which just happened to be offering a free performance in the square. After this we continued walking, and became hopelessly lost. The neighborhood was run down enough that we would be concerned in most other cities. But, Havana has a surprisingly low crime rate so we pressed on. There was music and light coming from a nearby square, so we headed for that. We were greeted by flashing lights, a row of 1950’s cars with their headlights on and smoke machines behind them, and a group of singers/dancers in black leather jackets. We assumed that perhaps a street revival of Grease was taking place. In fact they were shooting a music video that ended up turning into a street party. From here we took a cab to a government run gay bar known as Cabaret Las Vegas. The décor was definitely more communist state than gay. But, the drag show put most others to shame. The drag performers were good, about what you would expect in any other city. What set the performances apart were the feather clad carnival dancers, mamba performers and drumline that accompanied some of the acts. It felt like we could have been at the Tropicana instead of a typical gay bar.
Interacting with Locals
Another thing that was fascinating about wandering the streets is your ability to interact with locals. Most of the restaurants and bars that tourists visit are too expensive for locals to attend. A teacher may only make the equivalent of $20 a month, and a doctor $80. A $25 per person dinner with drinks is inexpensive to us, but beyond their means. So many people gather in the streets or on the Malecόn (waterfront boardwalk) to share a bottle of rum and socialize. While we were walking people would come up to ask us where we were from, practice their English and talk about life in Cuba. Occasionally, someone would try to direct you to their uncle’s bar; which of course was the best in town. But, for the most part the interactions are innocent and interesting.
Memories and Other Souvenirs
The best souvenirs from your trip to Cuba will be the memories. But, high end rum and cigars are also popular. Another item to consider is the art. Life is a struggle in Cuba, and struggle often leads to creativity. This results in interesting works that are reasonably priced. To find out more about Cuban art, consider watching “Alumbrones” (Illuminations). This documentary interviews several artists and offers insight into their lives. If you would like to find out more about what Cuba has to offer, contact us at Purple Light Vacations. We would love to assist you in visiting this, or any other, amazing destination.
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